Shanking buttons



July 18, 1933. M; MCCANN 1,918,280 i SHANKING BUTTONS Filed Feb.

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Patented July 18, 1933 UNETED STAT terasse MCHAEL MCCANN, OF ST. ALBANS, NEW YORK, ASSGNOR TO OSANN C0111- PANY, GF NEW YORK, N. Y., A CRPRATIGN OF NEW` YURK SHANKING BUTTONS Application filed February 12, 1930. Serial No. 427,785.

lVhen buttons are sewed to the heavier types of garments such as overcoats, it is desir-able that the back faces of the buttons be spaced from the forward face of the cloth so that the relatively thick material adjacent to the button-holes may pass in between sufriciently readily when the garment is buttoned. 1t has been customary, therefore, to sew the button on loosely and then to wind thread about the group of stitches between the button and the work to form a relatively stiff shank to space the button from the work. Attempts have been heretofore made to sew and shank buttons by machine, the same machine performing both operations. Such machines, however, have been highly complicated and to the best. of my knowledge have never been commercially successful.

In accordance with the present invention shanking is done as an operation separate and distinct from the sewing and may be done by a machine of the button sewing type, differing therefrom only in the device for holding the work and in the mechanism for controlling the movement of the work relative to the sewing needle. The button is first sewed to the work sufficiently loosely to form a neck7 of threads between the rear face of the button and the front face of work as by holding the button spaced from the work the desired dista-nce during the sewing operation. The button and the work are then so supported and manipulated relative to a sewing needle as to wrap the neck of threads substantially from end to end to form a relatively stiif neck spacing the button from the work, the stitches being passed alternately about opposite sides of the neck of threads and preferably distributed lengthwise of this neck. Either a chain or a lock stitch machine may be used for this operation, successively placed loops of shanking thread passed about the neck of sewing threads being locked together either in chain stitch formation when a chain stitch machine is used, or through a second or shuttle thread when a lockstitch machine is used. ln either case the stitching action tightens the loops of thread aboutA the neck strands so that a very satisfactory shanking action results which is more secure and more uniformly distributed than that produced by the usual hand winding. The present application relates to the stitch formation and the method of making it, the mechanism herein shown by which the shanking operation is performed forming the subject matter of a divisional application Serial No. 509,390, filed January 17, 1931,*for Means for shanking buttons.

F or a more complete understanding of this invention, reference mav be had to the accompanying drawing in which Figure 1 is a side elevation partly broken away of a button sewing machine equipped to perform the shanking operation and showing the button and work in position therefor.

Figure 2 is a horizontal section on line 2`2 of Figure 1, the button and work being omitted.

Figure 3 is a fragmentary perspective of l70 the holder for the button and work.

Figure 4 is a front elevation of a button clamp and button held in proper relation to work in a button sewing machine for the sewing operation preparatory to shanking.

Figure 5 is a somewhat diagrammatic view to a large scale and with parts distorted for the sake of clarity and illustrating the shanking operation.

Figure 6 is a fragmentary elevation showing superposed layers 0f wrapping stitches on the thread neck.

Referring tothe drawing, Figures 1 and 2 illustrate a well known button sewing machine of the chain stitch type such as is shown more in detail in the Lyons Patent No. 1,671,197, granted May 29, 1928. This machine has a base 1 from which extends upwardly and forwardly a sewing arm 2 having a head 3 at its free end in which is mounted for reciprocation and pivotal movement about an axis 4L, a needle bar 5. This needle bar is given its reciprocating motions by a rock shaft 6 connected to the needle bar by the pivoted arms 7 and 8. The lateral motion of the needle bar about the pivot l is produced by rocking of an arm 9, adjustably pivoted at 10 to determine the amplitude of lateral motion, as is more fully disclosed in the Lyons patent. In the base 1 is a suitable looper mechanism 11 100 `will later appear. 45'

- notches and 41.

which cooperates with the needle 15 carried ing feet 53 and 54 which rest upon the upper by the needle bar 5 to form chain stitches.

In place of the usual button clamp employed with button sewing machines of this type, a special form of work holder` indicated as al whole at 2O is employed. T his holder, as shown, comprises a base 21 which is pivotally connected as at 22 through a bracket arm 24 to a slide 220, this pivot being horizontally7 disposed so that the base 21 may he raised when desired as by pulling on a chain 25 secured at its lower end to a block 26 bolted to the base 21. This chain may be pulled upwardly by any suitablel means, but as herein shown its upper end is pivoted to an arm 27 carried by a rock shaft 28. This rock shaft is normally held in such an angular position as to permit the base 21 to rest in contact with the usual throat plate 90 of the machine, as by means of a coil spring 29. This rock shaft 28 may be turned so as to raise the work holder by any suitable means, for example, as disclosed in the Lyons patent by means of a pull chain extending to a suitable treadle mechanism. Y

At the forward end of the base 21 are positioned a pair of upstanding wall members 30 and 31 which are arranged laterally to the length of the base 21. The wall member 31, as shown, is provided with a rearwardly directed integral foot plate 82 which may be adjustably fixed to the base 21 as by means of a screw 83 passing through a. slot- 84 therein and threaded into the base 21. The wall member 30 is provided with a similar foot portion 36 through which is slot 3T for the reception of a securing screw 38 which is also threaded into the base 21` The plate niembers 30 and 31 are provided with opposed slot-s 4() and 41, respectively, preferably having rounded flaring upper ends to facilitate inserting the work. The slot 41 is somewhat wider than the slot 40 for a purpose which These plate members form a support for a but-ton and the work which have previously been loosely stitched together in such a manner as to leave a neck of stitching threads 45 therebetween, the back face of the button 46 being positioned against the back face of the wall member 31 and the work 47 to which it is attached being positioned forwardly of the wall member 80, the stitching threads extending through the 1n order to better retain the work and button in position the members 3() and 31 may be spaced apart at their upper portions slightly further than at their foot portions, as shown.

This preliminary securing of the button to the work in this loose manner may be effected by any suitable mechanism. In Figure 4 is shown, for example, a button clamp indicated generally at 50 provided with side button clamping jaws 51 and 52 which are shown as provided with downwardly extendface of the work 47 so as to support the button 46 spaced thereabove so that when the stitches are passed through the sewing holes of the button and the work, the button is loosely secured by the stitching threads as heretofore described. Commonly where the work to which the buttons are secured is heavy, such as overcoating fabric, a reinforcing button is applied to the back face of the work and where this is desired the cloth plate 5G of the button sewing machine may be provided with a depression to receive the reinforcing button as at 57 and hold it 1n proper relation to the button clamp so that the stitching threads are passed through sewing holes in this reinforcing button as well as through the work and the button being secured. This reinforcing button may be omitted, if desired. The plates 30 and 31 are so positioned relative to the needle that the needle strokes are caused to pass alternately on opposite sides of the neck of threads, thus to cause successive loops of stitching thread to be passed about this neck of threads alternately in opposite directions. Thus when these loops of tnrcad are taken from the needle, as by the usual looper mechanism, and the stitch is completed, these loops are dra yn up tightly about the neckof threads, binding them together by the interengagement of these loops. lVhere, as in the machine illustrated, a chain stitch machine is used, these leops willbe interengaged with each other in chain stitch formation, as shown somewhat diagrammatically at 60 in Figure 57 though it will be understood that these loops will be drawn tightly together as in the usual chain stitch sewing operation and not loosely, as they are shown for the sake of clarity.y The slot 40 on the plate 80-is preferably sufficiently narrow to bring the sewing threads of the neck so close together that the lateral vibratory motion of the needle between successive stitching opertaions is suflicient to clear the neck of threads when given an amplitude of motion which may, if de sircd, be identical with that employed in the placing of the securing stitches through the sewing holes in the button. The button being of 'relatively unyielding material holds the groups of stitching threads apart adjacent thereto so that the slot 41 is made relatively wide to receive them.

Between successive stitching operations, it is preferable to move the work and button holder lengthwise of the neck of threads in order to distribute the binding threads therealong. Button sewing machines of the chai'- acter shown are commonly provided with means for producing such motion of the button clamp and it is only necessary therefore to apply toV such machines cam or other controlling mechanism designed to impart the desired motion to the button and work holder 20 for the purposes of the present invention. To this end the machine shown is provided with a cam 'TO having'a cam path 7l therein within which rides a follower 72 on an arm 73 fixed to a rock sha-ft 74. This rock shaft imparts motion to a slotted link 7 5 in a manner clearly disclosed in the Lyons patent hereinbefore referred to and which is` adjustably connected to move the slide "220. The cam path 71 as shown is formed to impart motion by small increments to the slide 220 between successive passes of the needle l5. It is shown as designed to start the shanking operation adjacent to the plate 30 where the sewing threads have been brought together by the relatively narrow slot 40. As the operation of the machine progresses, the button and work are moved forwardly so as to cause the shanking to be effected progressively toward the rear face of the button until the space between the plates 30 and 3l have been substantially filled by binding stitches. The work and button are then given a step by step rearward movement until they are brought back to their initial position where the machine stops. There are thus placed two superposed layers of closely lying binding stitches throughout substantially the length of the shank which produces a rm supporting neck spacing the button from the work. In Figure 6 the second layer of wrapping stitches is shown as partly completed. As usual with machines of this type the two nal needle strokes ma7 be caused to pass on thel same side of the neck of sewing threads to knot the thread in the usual manner.

F or ease in adjusting it is preferable that the forward position of the work and button holder be the same for all adjustments of the throw of the work and button. Thus after the rear plate 3l has been fixed in the proper position for one length of shank, it is then necessary only to adjust the position of the forward plate 30, which is readily accessible, when the length of shank is to be modified. In order that buttons of relatively large size may be taken by the holding means, the base 32 of the plate 31 may be slotted out as at 8O and this slot may be extended through the base plate 2l and into the throat plate 90 as shown in Figure l.

F rom the foregoing description of the method of shanking, a machine for performing the operation and the resultant product, it should be evident to those skilled in the art that various changes and modicationsA might be made without spirit or scope of this claim herein broadly departing from the invention. I do not the wrapping of strand or other material gathered together in bundle formation by loops of thread passed alternately thereabout in opposite directions and secured together, but what I do claim is:

l. The combination with work having a button `sewed thereto and spaced therefrom to leave a neck of sewing threads extending therebetween, of means tightly binding said neck threads comprising loops of thread passed thereabout in opposite directions and secured together, said binding loops being distributed closely along said neck between the back face of thc button and the forward face of the work and forming with said sewing threads a relatively stil neck spacing the button from the work.

2. The combination with work having a button sewed thereto and spaced therefrom to leave a neck of sewing threads extending therebetween, of means tightly binding said neck threads comprising loops of thread passed thereabout in opposite directions and secured together in chain stitch formation, said binding loops being distributed closely along said neck between the back face of the button and the forward face of the work and forming with said sewing threads a relatively stiff' neck spacing theJ button from the work.

3. The combination with work having a button sewed thereto and spaced therefrom to leave a neck of threads extending therebetween, of means tightly binding said neck threads comprising superposed layers of closely placed binding thread loops, adjacent loops of each layer being passed about said neck in opposite directions and secured together, said binding loops forming with said sewing threads a relatively sti neck spacing the button from the work.

4. The combination with work having a button sewed thereto and spaced therefrom to leave a neck of threads extending therebetween, of means tightly binding said neck threads comprising superposed layers of closely placed binding thread loops, adjacent loops of each layer being passed about said neck in opposite directions and secured together in chain stitch formation, said binding loops forming with said sewing threads a relatively stiff neck spacing the button from the work.

5. The method which comprises passing loops of thread alternately in opposite directions and securing said loops together about the sewing threads between a button and work which attach the button to the work and progressively in close relation in one direction lengthwise of said sewing threads and then in the opposite direction to form a pair of superposed layers of binding loops around said sewing threads.

6. The method which comprises passing loops of thread alternately in opposite directions and securing said loops together in chain stitch formation about the sewing threads between a button and work which attach the button to the work and progressively in close relation in one direction leo lengthwise of said sewing threads and then in the opposite direction to form a pair of superposed layers of binding loops around said sewing threads.

7 The method which comprises sewing a button to work loosely and pulling the button away from the work as far as permitted by the sewing stitches to forni a neck of sewing threads between the back :Ea-ce of the button and the forward face oi tho Work, and then passing loops of thread alternately in opposite directions about said neck and securing them together closely placed substantially from end to end of said neck.

neck.

MICHAEL MCCANN. 

